The $125,000 ‘Shroom, 52 Key Wines, Drink like Millionaire, Sauced in City, More!

The $125,000 ‘Shroom

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Not just any old ‘shroom, but two ‘shroom in one! At the recent World White Truffle Auction in Alba, Italy, I witnessed a massive, “twin truffle” auctioned off for 100,000 euro, then about $125,000 in US dollars, for what is essentially a big, divinely-scented mushroom. The tartufo bianco weighed a total of 1 kilogram and was purchased by a Hong Kong buyer via satellite. I later got a close up look at this sublime ‘shroom specimen and interviewed its keeper, Mauro Carbone, director of the National Center for the Study of Truffles. The charity auction coincided with the heart of truffle season in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy and the annual Alba Truffle Fair. Business Insider featured my video of it here. ‘Shroom on!

52 Wine Picks Over Four Festivals

Those who have attended my wine seminars know that I make my selections more carefully than a vegan at a churrascaria. Depending on the seminar theme, the wines will vary by price, country of origin, and style, but they all have one commonality: the tendency to induce goose bumps of pleasure. With midwinter wine rescue an urgency and Valentine’s Day fast approaching, several readers have inquired about my recent wine picks.  So for your shopping lists, below are 52 outstanding wines, all of which I painstakingly chose and recently presented at four major food and wine festivals:

Food Network South Beach Wine & Food: Birds and Bubbles

Those who have attended my wine seminars know that I make my selections more carefully than a vegan at a churrascaria. Depending on the seminar theme, the wines will vary by price, country of origin, and style, but they all have one commonality: the tendency to induce goose bumps of pleasure. With midwinter wine rescue an urgency and Valentine’s Day fast approaching, several readers have inquired about my recent wine picks.  So for your shopping lists, below are 52 outstanding wines, all of which I painstakingly chose and recently presented at four major food and wine festivals:

Seminar 1: “Fried and True: A Fried Chicken Seminar” (with festival founder/author Lee Brian Schrager and author Adeena Sussman)

1) Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen 2012
(Austria, with Asha Gomez’s Herb & Chili Fried Chicken with Spiced Maple Syrup)
2) Champagne Henriot Brut Rosé NV
(France, with Dale Talde’s Kung Pao Chicken Wings)
3) LVP Imported Red Sangria
(Spain, with Yotam Ottolenghi’s Seeded Chicken Schnitzel with Parsley & Caper Mayonnaise)
4) B.R. Cohn Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2010
(California, with Vanessa Williams’ Fried Chicken)

This mouthwatering menu is based on recipes from Lee and Adeena’s new book, Fried and True: More than 50 Recipes for America’s Best Fried Chicken and Sides.

Seminar 2: “Sparkling Sweets: An Ice Cream and Champagne Pairing Seminar” (with Jeni Britton, owner, Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams)

1) Chateau Ste. Michelle Extra Dry Columbia Valley NV
(Washington State, with Passion Fruit Sorbet/Lychee Sorbet)
2) Prunotto Moscato d’Asti 2012
(Italy, with Apricot Sorbet/Chamomile Ice Cream)
3) Veuve Clicquot Demi Sec NV
(France, with Whole Milk Yogurt/Estate Vanilla Bean/Cloverton with Buttery Graham Gravel)
4) Marenco Brachetto d’Acqui 2012
(Italy, with Salty Caramel/Salty Goat’s Milk Chocolate/Hazelnut)
5) Moët & Chandon Nectar Impérial Rosé NV
(France, with Bitter Askinosie/Chocolate and Dark Chocolate)

Austin Food & Wine: Outsmarting the Wine List

Seminar 1: “Outsmart the Wine List”

1) Cristalino Brut NV (Spain)
2) Boutari Assyrtiko Santorini 2013 (Greece)
3) Chapoutier Pays d’Oc Rosé Les Vignes de Bila-Haut 2013 (France)
4) Louis Jadot Morgon Chateau des Jacques 2011 (France)
5) Spring Val Vyd K. Corkrum Cabernet Franc 2010 (Washington State)
6) Chapoutier Pinteivera Douro 2011 (Portugal)

Seminar 2: “Bubbly Worth Savoring”

1) Mumm Napa Blanc de Blancs NV (California)
2) Argyle Brut NV (Oregon)
3) Ferrari Brut NV (Italy)
4) Gosset Grand Reserve Brut NV (France)
5) Taittinger Brut Rosé Champagne Prestige NV (France)
6) Michele Chiarlo Moscato d’Asti Nivole 2011 (Italy)

Seminar 3: “Hunt for the Next Malbec”

1) Austin Hope Grenache 2011 (California)
2) Santa Ema Carmenere 2012 (Chile)
3) Tormaresca Primitivo Salento Torcicoda 2011 (Italy)
4) Planeta Sicilia La Segreta Red 2012 (Italy, Nero d’Avola grape)
5) Castano Monastrell 2012 (Spain)
6) Leonetti Merlot Walla Walla 2011 (Washington State)

The Austin Chronicle ran this kind review of my Austin seminars. Join me at this year’s Austin Food and Wine Festival, April 24-26.

Aspen FOOD & WINE Classic: Drinking Like an IPO Millionaire

At last year’s Aspen FOOD & WINE Classic, I assumed the persona of an IPO millionaire to present an astonishing array of special occasion wines. A tech hoodie was of course obligatory, but instead of donning the drab Zuckerbergian variety, I found one with Rick James gilded swagger. Speaking of the Facebook cofounder, I actually had Zuck in mind when I hatched the “Wine for IPO Millionaires” concept and launched this video a few years ago.

I explain my getup and the seminar to the always-dazzling Sissy Biggers in this genConnect interview. Make no mistake: the outfit was lighthearted, but the six wines, selected by my Aspen tasting panel of discerning nonprofessionals) were serious, as in seriously iconic:

Seminar 1: “Wine for IPO Millionaires: Special Occasion Wine”

1) Dom Pérignon Brut Champagne 2004 (France)
2) Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2011 (France)
3) Domaine Faiveley Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2011 (France)
4) Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2010 (California)
5) Yao Ming Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, 2009 (California)
6) Chateau Rieussec Sauternes Grand Cru 2006 (France)
Bonus: a few drops of Leacock’s Verdelho Madeira Solera 1872

     

Long before the festival commenced, Curbed named the seminar one of “Ten Don’t Miss Events at Aspen Food & Wine” and the New York Post named it one of two “hot picks” at the Classic. The Post also ran this preview.

The Aspen Daily News later ran this review and reported that the sold-out seminar was over-capacity by 70 thirsty souls. 5280 featured these fun quotes.

surprise guest at my seminar: the soignée
Margrit Mondavi, widow of Robert Mondavi

Seminar 2: “Top Sonoma Pinot Noir”

Pinot Envy Square

1) Hirsch Vineyards San Andreas Fault Estate 2011
2) DuMOL Russian River Valley 2011
3) Williams Selyem Westside Road Neighbors 2012
4) Patz & Hall Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast 2012
5) Radio-Coteau La Neblina Sonoma Coast 2012
6) Lynmar Russian River Valley Quail Hill Vineyard Summit 2012

 natural flag of Aspen: blue, white, and green

Tickets are on sale now for the FOOD & WINE Classic in Aspen, this June 19th to 21st, which marks my 10th anniversary at the Classic.  Batten down the hatches: one of my topics will be “Wine for IPO Billionaires”.

Food Network New York Wine & Food: Sauced in the City 

Seminar 1: “Sauced In the City” (with Hugh Mangum, owner/chef, A Mighty Quinn’s BBQ, NYC) 

1) Codorníu “Anna de Codorniu” Cava Brut NV (Spain, aperitif)
2) Dopff & Irion, Gewürztraminer 2012 (France, with Smoked Pork Sausage)
3) J. Moreau & Fils, Chablis 2008 (France, with Smoked Smoked Scallop Sausage served with Pickled Sea Beans, Watercress and a Fall Mostarda)
4) Laurent-Perrier Champagne Rose NV (France with Smoked Tofu “Lardon” Frisée Salad with Miso-Bacon Fat Dressing
5) A to Z Pinot Noir 2012 (Oregon, with Smoked Lambs Neck with Quick Pickled Cucumbers, Pickled Chiles and Preserved Lemon Sauce)
6) Antinori Tignanello 2010 (Italy, with Smoked Short Rib with Butternut Squash and Rosemary Gremolata)
7) Inniskillin Vidal Icewine Oak Aged 2011 (Canada, with Sticky Toffee Pudding with Smoked Vanilla Bean Ice Cream and Sea Salt Caramel)

Seminar 2: “Dirt Candy Delights: A Vegetarian Seminar”(with Amanda Cohen, owner/chef, Dirty Candy, NYC)

with Dirt Candy’s Amanda Cohen

1) Argyle Brut 2010 (Oregon, aperitif)
2) Planeta La Segreta Bianco Sicily 2013 (Italy, with Portobello Mousse with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms and Peach and Fennel Compote
3) Matarromera Melior Verdejo 2013 (Spain, with Tomato Tart with Smoked Feta)
4) Weingut Weixelbaum Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2012 (Austria, with Celery Salad with Celery Pesto and Grilled Grapes)
5) Remy Pannier Chinon 2011 (France, with Mini Broccoli Hot Dogs with Broccoli Sauerkraut)
6) Prunotto Moscato d’Asti 2012 (Italy, with Popcorn Pudding)

Last Drop: Gustatory Delta Force

with Special Op Commanders Jacques Pépin,
Drew Nieporent, Danny Meyer, and Marc Murphy

Last Drop: On Real Men…

 


real men wear aprons and make fresh pasta

now has anyone seen that massive twin ‘shroom?

Winemaker Groupie – Is It the Life for You?

Nobody raises an eyebrow if they see a fan getting his book or concert program signed. If Meryl Streep or Daniel Craig is asked for an autograph, it is a natural course of events. But what of wine and the winemaker: is it ok to ask a vintner to sign to your bottle?

Winemaker

So I pondered during the recent Domaine de la Romanée-Conti media tasting at New York’s A Voce Columbus.  The featured speaker was Aubert de Villaine, the courtly French co-owner and winemaker of DRC, widely considered the most sacred Pinot Noir ever to ferment its way into existence.  After we tasted through the 2010’s, which included pulse-quickening renditions of La Tâche and Romanée Conti, as well as, of course, the ethically proper abandonment of my spit cup, I threw caution to the wind and approached Aubert. Preternaturally unassuming, he gamely agreed to sign my bottle and did so with an appreciative smile, thereby creating a memento that shall grace my curio cabinet for the rest of my wine-moistened years.

Later I reflected on what it takes to make the most of approaching your favorite winemaker for such a bottle note, and here’s what I came up with:

Have a good marker ready. Don’t use just any pen – employ a Sharpie for its permanence and then choose a color such as purple or burgundy to lend visibility and uniqueness. For a dark label, go metallic gold or silver.

Have an inscription in mind. Unlike authors or actors, winemakers don’t necessarily come equipped with witty inscriptions.  If you don’t premeditate something for them to write, you might be left with only a lonely signature, which just isn’t making the most of your effort or the bottle’s potential impact. During the tasting, Aubert had talked of how great wine gets that way when grapes can achieve a fine ripeness he called “finesse de maturité”.  And there, in that poetic phrase, an inscription for my bottle was born.

Make it a special bottle. Even if I had wanted to use an empty 2010 bottle from the tasting, I wouldn’t have dared, for fear of freaking out DRC’s importer, Wilson Daniels, whose reps rushed to scrawl an “X” over the label of each emptied bottle so as to discourage counterfeiting.  Who can blame them when you consider how connoisseurs have been duped by the likes of scoundrels such as recent faker extraordinaire Rudy Kurniawan; one expert told me that just one empty bottle of Romanée Conti could be worth thousands of dollars on the black market.

incredibly, the two middle numbers have not been transposed

Fortunately a month before this tasting, I took part in a nine-person dinner vinously catered by not one but two legendary collectors. For a grape nut, this is the rarest of planetary alignments, like being afforded access to the music collection of Brahms and Beethoven. Among his show-stopping offerings the first collector brought the dessert wine Château d’Yquem from the unfathomable vintage of 1893 (incredibly, the middle two numbers have not been transposed) which still had plenty of lemon-vanilla intensity despite its century-topping slumber in glass.

 

The other collector’s contributions included the 1996 Leflaive Montrachet, one of the rarest and most coveted Chardonnays ever made, and two bottles each of 1990 La Tache and 1990 Romanée Conti, both Picassos of Pinot whose current auction price I resisted Googling for fear of setting my computer’s keys ablaze.  The day after this epic repast, I knew that the right thing to do was to ship home one of the empty bottles of Romanée Conti.  

This of course wasn’t the first time I saved an empty bottle for sentimental purposes.  As detailed in this New York Times piece and in this lighthearted video, I was sent to New York criminal court for walking the streets with an unloaded bottle of 1970 Château Palmer.  It is one of those truth-is-stranger-than-fiction stories, recounted in amusing detail in this official court transcript.  When last fall I had the opportunity to have dinner with Château Palmer’s CEO Thomas Duroux, I had him inscribe a bottle of the ’70 Palmer with the rallying cry from the above video, “Libérez Oldman!”

Winemaker

My first foray into winemaker worship happened as a college student when I co-founded the Stanford Wine Circle and convinced the mythic Robert Mondavi to come to campus to lead a tasting of his To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. After his presentation, Wine Circle members lined up with the determination of sample-sale seekers to have an empty bottle from this tasting signed by this vintner hero. Bursting with ruddy enthusiasm, Mondavi basked in the attention, any trace of his octenegarian years vanishing in the presence of the event’s adoring coeds.  And like a Cab-craving Richard Dawson, he kissed every one of them.

My own tribute to the man came in the form of having him sign a bottle of the then-acclaimed 1985 Mondavi Cabernet Reserve, which I had sourced with the help of the winery’s San Jose rep; we located what seemed like the last bottle on Earth hidden under egg grass in the display case of a trinket shop at SFO airport.

So the message here is not to hesitate engaging in your own winemaker groupiedom. Find a wine you love and discover who is behind it.  Visit the winery or attend a winemaker dinner and get your bottle signed with a message meaningful to you.  Not only will it pay due tribute to a talented soul, but it will forever bond you to their work.  It may also inspire you to follow that wine throughout the years, noticing how each vintage can bring intriguing flavor and texture variations – the observance of which is one of the great joys of wine appreciation.  Never forget that winemakers are as deserving of a place on your shelf of memories as any musician or actor.  Actually, they might be more deserving, because winemakers aren’t just artists; they are artists who get you buzzed.

Ethics in Wine, Rule 22: when tasting DRC, this is exactly how much you should use the spit cup

2010 DRC TASTING – MARCH 2013
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton 2010
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echézeaux 2010
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands Echézeaux 2010
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-St.-Vivant 2010
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 2010
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 2010
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti 2010
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 2010

COLLECTORS’ DINNER – FEBRUARY 2013
Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet 1996
Domaine Leflaive Montrachet 1996
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1996
Domaine Dujac Romanée St. Vivant 2006
Domaine Dujac Romanée St. Vivant 2007
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 1990
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti 1990
Château d’Yquem 1893